Locking Mechanism Removal:
Start by removing the door trim panel.
1. Begin by lowering the door window glass completely.
2. There are two black Torx T25 screws at the bottom of the door - remove them. (illustration)
3. Use a thin-bladed flathead screwdriver to pry off the inner door handle cover (not the door release handle). (illustration)
4. For the driver side door, you can now pull up on the entire handle/switch assembly as a unit - use moderate force to unclasp the clips holding it in place. Remove the brown wire harness from the handle/switch assembly and set the assembly aside.
5. For the drivers side door, there are three bronze color screws anchoring the door trim panel to the rest of the door. The passenger's side door has two of these screws. Use a large philips-head screwdriver to remove these. (illustration)
6. The rest of the door trim panel is now held in place by snap-in anchors and can be loosened by pulling the trim panel away from the door. Begin with the bottom of the door and give it a good tug to pop out the connectors. Take care not to pull the trim panel far away from the door, as there are several wire/cable connections still in place between the trim panel and door. After the lower portion of the trim panel is separated, pull the entire panel upward to unhinge the panel from the window sill. The trim panel should now be free from the door, with several wires and cables still in place. (illustration)
7. Disconnect the following from the trim panel: (illustration)
a. Wire harness plugged into the door release handle.
b. Door release cable. To remove this, pull the cable insulation away from the hooked end and slide the exposed cable out of the slitted retainer. Release the hooked end.
c. Security alarm LED wire connector.
d. Bottom door sill lamp - it's easier to pull out the entire wire harness + lamp assembly than to disconnect the wire harness.
8. Pull the door trim panel away and set aside.
Next, window glass removal:
9. Remove the two large, circular rubber inserts from the metal door panel. If you pry with a screwdriver, take care not to damage the mating surfaces. (illustration)
10. Reconnect the handle/switch assembly to the brown wire harness to allow window control. With the key in the On position (no need to start the engine), roll up the window until the window clamp screws are accessible through the circular cutouts.
11. Use a 10mm socket to loosen the clamps holding the window glass in place - it will only take a few turns to loosen the clamps, no need to remove the screws entirely.
12. Roll the window down until a third of the window glass is left visible in the window frame.
13. Disconnect the handle/switch assembly.
14. Remove the window glass. Reach over the top of the door and pull the window glass upwards (towards yourself). As you raise the window glass, angle it towards the hinge side of the door to allow the window glass to clear the window slot. Set the window glass aside.
Unhooking the lock mechanism:
15. On the end side of the door, pry off the black plastic cap above the lock mechanism screws. This cap covers the access hole for the lock set screw. (illustration)
16. Use a Torx T20 driver to unscrew the set screw. Unscrew it as far as it will go, then reinsert a few threads to keep the screw from falling out of its mounting.
17. Pull on the exterior door handle - with the door handle in this position, pull on the lock cylinder. It should slide out without much trouble. Set the lock cylinder aside. (illustration)
18. There is a cable hooked into the side of the exterior door handle. The cable can be positioned at various points along the handle. Note the current position of the cable and release it from the handle. (illustration)
19. Use the M8 12 point star driver to remove the two screws in the door side. On my car, these screws were loose and allowed the lock mechanism to move around, causing solder joint stress - keep reading... (illustration)
Removing the metal panel:
20. Disconnect the various wire harnesses on the metal door panel - don't worry about what goes where - each connector can only fit in one and only one place. Also use a flathead screwdriver to unclip the various snaps holding the wiring to the panel.
21. Use the 10mm socket to unscrew the ten hex bolts securing the metal panel to the door frame. (illustration)
22. Pull the panel away from the door frame starting at the edges - if you haven't removed the panel before, the gasket may require a bit of force to pry it away from the frame. Carefully maneuver the entire panel around until the panel is free of the door frame with the lock mechanism and associated wiring attached. (illustration)
23. Remove the wire harness from the lock mechanism and remove it from the metal panel - this will allow you to completely separate the metal panel from the door. (illustration)
Removing the lock mechanism:
24. The lock mechanism is held in place on the metal panel by a plastic bracket with two cylindrical pins keeping the bracket in place. Use a blunt tool to push the pins out from the rear of the panel. My Passat had managed to work the pins loose and dropped them into the door frame, where they've likely lain for months. The bracket had then worked loose of the panel and the entire lock mechanism was free to jostle around in the door. The wiring harness, still being pinned in place, then stressed the electrical connectors internal to the lock mechanism and cracked a solder joint.
25. Unhook the door lock pin rod from the lock mechanism. (illustration)
26. Remove the interior door release handle cable. Start by popping the harness out of the mount on the locking mechanism, then unhook the cable.
27. Separate the locking mechanism from the panel. (illustration)
If you are simply replacing the entire mechanism, pop on the replacement and retrace your steps. If you're feeling charitable, contact me - I'd like to take a look at other failed units and see if the problem with mine is common, or if Passat owners can expect a variety of failure modes. If you'd like to attempt repair, read on.
The trouble area of the mechanism is in the electrical connection part of the unit. This is the black & pale yellow plastic section held together by a total of 8 screws and two plastic snaps.
Locking Mechanism Disassembly:
1. Use a Torx T10 driver to unscrew the 5 visible Torx screws (four on the face, one on the side). (illustration)
2. Pull the plastic bracket's long clip from the mechanism - there is a sixth screw hidden underneath.
3. Use a Torx T20 to remove the large Torx screw.
4. You should now be able to carefully pull apart the two sections of the mechanism - you'll need to unclip the plastic snaps while pulling the sections away from each other. (illustration)
5. After pulling these sections away, the last Torx T10 screw will be revealed. Remove it.
6. Flip the mechanism to the yellow plastic side. Pull and remove the spring indicated. (illustration)
7. Pull the metal handle indicated upward to allow separation of the two halves.
8. Flip to the black plastic side without allowing the two halves to separate.
9. The internals of the mechanism are mounted on the yellow plastic half - carefully pull up on the black plastic half to reveal the electronics inside. (illustration)
Locking Mechanism Diagnosis:
The electronics are straightforward. Two microswitches at the top of the unit detect if the key is moving the lock cylinder to the lock or unlock positions. The microswitch next to the white plastic slide determines the current state of the door lock. The motor actuates electronic locking and unlocking.
Note: Take care not to change the position of the various handles and slides - it's fairly easy to determine how the different switches and handles interact with each other when it's time to put things back together, but it's easier to leave everything in the positions discovered. Also, note the position of the brown gear on the motor shaft to the small white attachment mounted inside. There is an alignment between the notch in the copper track inside the brown gear and a metal cylinder in the white plastic container. Just be sure to reset this relationship during reassembly.
10. Pull the white slide from the assembly, along with the white mount holding the shaft of the plastic slide screw and the motor shaft in place. Set aside, without changing the state of the plastic slide and screw. (illustration)
11. Pull the circuit board and motor from the yellow plastic half and flip upside down. (illustration)
Troubleshooting:
12. Start by examining the solder joints where the wire harness connectors meet the printed circuit board (PCB). I had a cracked joint at pin 7. (illustration)
13. Move on and visually inspect the solder joints for the three microswitches.
14. Use a multimeter and test each of the microswitches at the solder joints for correct operation. Usually, only two of the three contacts are used - when the switch is depressed, the two used contacts should have 0 or near 0 resistance (or if your multimeter has continuity checking, it should give a tone). Though usually only the trunk microswitch has a tendency to go bad, this could have occurred here as well. If a switch is bad, you'll need to replace it - there should be a part number somewhere for the switch, if all else fails you can always order a trunk microswitch and mount that.
15. If the switches are good, it's probably a solder joint problem. Heat up the soldering iron and use the desoldering braid to remove all of the solder from every joint in use on the board. Work in sections - remove solder from a few pins, and then resolder the same connections. Removing solder from all of the joints at once from a component will cause it to fall off the board and leave you to realign it. Not difficult, but easy to avoid anyway.
16. The red and blue wires connecting to the other section of the unit are used for a fourth microswitch - it isn't necessary to remove the microswitch from its mounting clip, but do test it as with the others.
Hopefully you've just done something that fixed the problem. Reassemble in the reverse order and see if your door (and wallet) is happy!

Comments:
•

Dit heb ik bij mijn golf gedaan en meteen heb ik toen het revisie setje geplaats van de raambediening( nu helemaal van ijzer ipv plastic (rond 45 euro per raamzijde)

Foto's van de handelingen heb ik ook maar krijg ik niet geplaatst.
Heb deze beschrijving van passat forum ergens verkregen.
weet niet meer waar

gr remo

Voor foto's kan ik je mailen.

Probeer eens de quote optie optie , dan krijg je wel de plaatjes mee denk ik

Hassati bedankt dit was hem inderdaad had hem zelf ooit eens gezien,
en gedownload maar kon achteraf link niet meer vinden.

gr remo

Bedankt mensen. Dit heeft mijn problemen met mijn linker achterdeur opgelost. Ik kon geen scheurtjes zien in de solderingen maar heb gewoon alles opnieuw gesoldeerd en het was over!

Hallo.
Bij mijn golf 4 doet de binnen verlichting het niet meer als de deur open gaat.
Ook de rode contour verlichting brand niet.
Moet ik de storing in het slot zoeken of zijn er andere opties.
En moet dan ook de hele raambediening en zo er uit?
Alvast dank!
Sietse

De rode contour verlichting moet het wel sowieso doen dacht ik. Als je die van de W8 verlichting bedoeld. Doet je binnenverlichting het niet meer bij alle deuren? Hoe is het met de uitstapverlichting in je deur?

Jij hebt het over de "ambient verlichting", TS heeft het over de lampjes onder aan de portiervakken van de deuren.

De uitstap verlichting in de deur noem ik contourverlichting sorry.
Die doet het ook niet.
Wat bij mij niet werkt is:
Uitstapverlichting,binnen verlichting en de zoemer van het licht.
Bij de rechtse deur werkt het wel.
Probleem in het slot? zou jammer zijn heb even niet veel tijd voor reparatie.
MVG Sietse

Van de week heb ik dit bij mijn auto ook gerepareerd, bestuurderskant was doorsolderen en klaar.
Bijrijderskant was de connector binnenin gedeeltelijk weggeroest (zat niet mooi gemonteerd zodat er vocht bij kon komen).
op de sloop gezocht naar een ander deurslot niet te vinden natuurlijk, uiteindelijk maar zelf aangepast en draden erbij gesoldeerd, werkt gelukkig weer perfect.

Lijkt trouwens veel werk maar valt best mee is prima te doen deze reparatie

alleen iemand een idee hoe en wanneer de verlichting in mijn kofferbak werkt?eerder ging die willekeurig aan nu eigenlijk nooit meer.

Kofferbakverlichting gaat altijd aan bij het openen van de klep.

oke en waar zit die schakelaar? zou die ook wel kapot zijn of soldering gebroken.

schakelaar in achterklep ook weer gangbaar gekregen, zit dus in het slot in de klep (schakelaar zelf is niet te zien), beetje olie erbij en wat spelen en werkt nu weer zoals het hoort,
kan ik in het donker mijn koffer teminste zien.